There will no longer be any Sunday collections with immediate effect.
Please collect any items during working hours Monday to Saturday:
Monday – Friday 9.00am-5.00pm
Saturday’s on preview or auction days
Many thanks
Hallmarks are the impressed stamps you will see on pieces of gold, silver and platinum, and it is important to look out for them when assessing pieces to buy at auction.
The system of British hallmarks dates back a few centuries, but the concept of hallmarking dates back thousands of years, to the time when coins first emerged as currency. Individually stamped by local officials, those early coins would have been made of electrum (a mix of gold and silver) or silver, and the stamp would denote the purity of the metal, which in turn attested to its value. It was only far later that base metal coins represented far greater values, effectively acting as tokens rather than carrying their actual value in their make-up.
From the earliest times one of the problems with currency losing its value was the clipping of coins, where the unscrupulous would harvest minute amounts of silver from the edge of individual coins stamped for a specific value. Eventually they would have enough silver to either mint new coins or make other valuable items. However, this also meant that the currency in circulation depreciated in value. The authorities put a stop to this trick in the reign of Charles II by introducing lettering around the edge of coins.
If debasement of the coinage – as even happened officially under Henry VIII to save money – was an age-old problem, so was debasement of objects made from precious metals. How did you know that the ring or goblet you bought was pure gold or silver, and not made from something cheaper, mixed in with a little of the precious metal to give it the appearance of something more valuable?
In England King Edward I started to tackle the problem by introducing a law in 1300 making it compulsory for all silver objects to meet a sterling silver standard of 92.5% purity. To ensure this, he ordered that objects passing an official test or ‘assay’ should be marked with a leopard’s head.
Edward’s grandson, Edward III, granted a charter to the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths 27 years later, and all objects made from gold had to be sent to the Goldsmiths’ Hall in London for assaying and approval. Hence the word hallmark.
Regional assay offices in England for silver were set up later in Sheffield, Birmingham, York, Exeter, Newcastle upon Tyne, Norwich and Chester. In Scotland, Edinburgh and Glasgow had assay offices, and in Ireland there was an office in Dublin. Sheffield, Birmingham, Edinburgh and Dublin survive. Of the others, some (Chester and Glasgow) lasted well into the 20th century, while others (Norwich, closed 1702) have been long gone.
This is important in helping to identify fakes or forgeries, as well as in establishing the genuine article when assessing a piece of silver. For instance, a Georgian coffee pot with a mark for Norwich – a castle surmounting a lion passant – could only be a forgery, deliberately created to make it look like something it is not. One of the ways of doing this would have been to cut the hallmark from another true Norwich silver object and inserting into something later and less valuable.
Other countries have similar systems measuring purity. If you’re lucky enough to come across a piece of Fabergé, for example, the Fabergé mark will be stamped in Cyrillic, but the purity of silver is measured in zolotniks, 96 zolotniks being pure.
A diamond ring described in a drawer as simply “old family jewellery” can produce anything from scrap value to strong competition in the saleroom. That is why jewellery valuation for sale is not a paper exercise or a matter of sentiment. It is a commercial assessment of what a piece is likely to achieve in the current market, based on evidence, craftsmanship, condition and buyer demand.
For private owners, executors and collectors, the distinction matters. A valuation prepared for probate or insurance serves one purpose. A valuation prepared for sale serves another entirely. If the intention is to consign jewellery to auction or consider other sale routes, the only useful question is not what it once cost, nor what it might cost to replace, but what informed bidders are likely to pay now.
A sale valuation is an estimate of likely selling range in the open market. In auction practice, that usually means a pre-sale estimate shaped by recent comparable results, the inherent quality of the piece, and the audience most likely to bid. It is commercial, not theoretical.
This differs from insurance valuation, which is often higher because it reflects replacement cost in the retail market. Probate valuation has its own basis as well, tied to a date and an assessment of market value for estate purposes. Confusion arises when owners present an insurance document and assume it represents likely sale proceeds. Very often it does not.
A proper valuation for sale therefore starts with realism. Jewellery is bought and sold within distinct markets. A branded diamond solitaire in excellent condition may attract strong interest. A mass-produced chain with modest intrinsic value may be judged chiefly on bullion content. A period brooch by a known maker may outperform its material value because collectors want the object, not merely the gold.
The process is part gemmological observation, part connoisseurship and part market judgement. No credible valuer works from one factor alone.
Gold, platinum and silver provide a baseline, but only a baseline. Weight, purity and hallmarks all matter. In some pieces, especially broken, heavily worn or unfashionable items, intrinsic metal value can exert a strong influence on the estimate. That said, jewellery with design merit should not be reduced too quickly to scrap logic.
Gemstones are considered by type, size, quality and whether they appear natural, treated or synthetic. Diamonds are judged by the familiar criteria of colour, clarity, cut and carat weight, but those points are not the whole story. Mounting, make and marketability still affect price. Coloured stones require even more care. Origin can matter in the right case, but so can tone, saturation, transparency and whether the stone has been heated or otherwise enhanced.
A Victorian mourning ring, an Art Deco sapphire and diamond plaque ring, or a mid-century piece by a recognised house each sits in a different market. Period and style influence desirability, and desirability influences bidding. Signed jewellery may carry a premium, provided the signature is genuine and the piece is characteristic of the maker.
Unsold stock from a modern retailer, by contrast, may have little secondary market premium even if originally expensive. Auction buyers are not paying for a showroom margin. They are buying the object as it stands in the present market.
Condition is not a footnote. Replaced stones, thinning shanks, chipped gems, broken clasps, poor solder repairs and heavy wear can all suppress value. Some age-related wear is expected in antique jewellery, and buyers often accept it if the piece remains sound and attractive. Extensive damage is different.
Equally, restoration can help or hinder. A careful period-appropriate repair may preserve saleability. An over-polished ring, a crude rebuild or a reset stone that alters the original character may weaken appeal. It depends on the object and the buyer base.
Boxes, receipts, certificates and family history do not guarantee a higher result, but they can help. Laboratory certification for important stones may increase confidence. A documented maker attribution or known provenance may broaden interest, especially where collectors are involved. Unsupported family tradition, however sincerely held, is not evidence.
This is the point many sellers find hardest to accept. Retail pricing includes overheads, stock risk, presentation and warranty. Auction estimates are framed for a competitive sale environment where the reserve must be sensible enough to encourage bidding.
That does not mean auction is always lower in every case. Rare, fashionable or highly collectable jewellery can exceed expectation when two or more determined bidders compete. But the estimate must still be grounded in the actual behaviour of the market. Overvaluation is not a kindness to the seller. It can deter bidding, leave lots unsold and ultimately weaken confidence.
A disciplined jewellery valuation for sale weighs ambition against evidence. The strongest results often come from accurate cataloguing, realistic estimating and access to the right buying audience, rather than from inflated expectations at the outset.
Auction is particularly suitable where a piece has collector interest, period character, notable stones, strong design or uncertainty that can best be resolved by open competition. Estate jewellery, inherited pieces and mixed private-owner consignments often perform well in specialist sales because bidders can compare, compete and judge value in real time.
It can also be an efficient route for executors or families handling multiple assets. Jewellery rarely exists in isolation. It may sit alongside silver, watches, coins, pictures or ceramics within a wider estate. An auction house with broad specialist departments can assess the group coherently and advise on where each item is best placed.
Private treaty sale may suit some high-value pieces, particularly where discretion or a very targeted buyer approach is required. Scrap or bullion sale may be rational for damaged, generic or incomplete items with no design premium. The right route depends on the character of the jewellery, not on a fixed rule.
Sellers do not need to polish jewellery aggressively or attempt home repairs before an appointment. In fact, that can do harm. What is useful is straightforward documentation and clear presentation.
Bring any certificates, old receipts, maker paperwork or previous valuations, while understanding that earlier documents may not reflect current sale value. If there is a known repair history, mention it. If stones are believed to have been replaced, say so. Good valuation work depends on accurate information as much as careful inspection.
It is also sensible to gather groups logically. Single earrings, broken chains and loose stones should not be hidden in with complete pieces. A valuer needs to distinguish between items suited to specialist cataloguing and those more appropriately treated as scrap or mixed lots.
A specialist will examine hallmarks, test materials where necessary, assess stones, note condition and consider market comparables. In some cases, especially with significant gemstones or signed pieces, further research may be required before a final estimate is settled. That is normal. Serious valuation is rarely instant guesswork.
Owners should expect clear advice on estimate range, reserve strategy where relevant, selling fees and the most suitable sale category. A professional conversation will also address uncertainty. Not every ruby is fine Burmese material. Not every old diamond ring is rare. Good advice is precise, not flattering.
The first is relying on insurance paperwork as a sale guide. The second is assuming age alone creates value. Plenty of old jewellery is modest. Plenty of twentieth-century jewellery is highly desirable. Date matters, but quality matters more.
The third mistake is undervaluing the effect of presentation and cataloguing. A strong lot description, proper photography and accurate attribution can materially affect bidder interest. This is one reason specialist auction handling matters. Serious buyers read details closely.
The fourth is setting expectations by sentimental attachment. Family history gives an object meaning, but the market does not price emotion. It prices rarity, quality, condition and demand.
The jewellery market is not static. Gold prices move. Taste changes. Certain periods come in and out of favour. Branded jewellery can strengthen sharply, while generic modern pieces may soften. Coloured stone demand can shift with fashion and supply. Even the same ring may perform differently depending on how, where and when it is offered.
That is why current, sale-focused advice matters. A credible valuation is not just about identifying what a piece is. It is about judging how it will be received by today’s buyers. At John Nicholson’s, that judgement is shaped by regular auction practice, not abstract theory.
If you are considering selling jewellery, the most useful starting point is an informed, commercially grounded assessment. Once you know what the piece is likely to achieve, decisions become much easier – whether that means consigning to auction, grouping items differently, or waiting for a stronger moment in the market.
Single items or collections welcome Trusted auction service Competitive results for sellersDeath, Divorce, Debt and Disaster. These are the four Ds, as they are known, that have traditionally defined why people decide to sell their belongings at auction. Now, I am adding another two: Downsizing and Decluttering. These can both apply as much to collectors and their collections as to households, but whichever it is, they all add to the rich mix of the saleroom, explaining at least one reason why auctions are such a great place to buy.
From family heirlooms to duplicates within collections that can be recycled to fund the next purchase, these sources of auction consignments bring hard-to-find rarities to the surface all the time. Auctions provide probably the best hunting ground thanks to house clearances and deceased estates, where interesting antiques and collectables that have been hidden away for decades get their first public showing. Pitched right, they can create a lot of bidding competition. But these circumstances also create the perfect opportunity to pick up a bargain. That’s why general auctions are such an exciting experience – you never know what will turn up.
Before the days of throwaway consumer culture, this is how many people furnished their homes. Now they call it upcycling, but quality and value are still the watchwords.
If you do decide to de-clutter, downsize or otherwise have a bit of a tidy-up, you may well find things among your possessions that have the potential to earn you a bit of money. If so, here are a couple of tips to remember.
Firstly, don’t spruce up anything antique in the hope of making it more attractive to buyers. You may well find that you damage them or make them less appealing. Dealers, for instance, generally prefer to buy things in ‘untouched’ condition, as it gives them the opportunity to have them restored and build in their own margin. Take that away and they tend to lose interest.
No matter how lacking in detail, if you have any paperwork linked to the items in question, include it with the consignment. It can make all the difference. In many cases, you won’t have any, but if you have memories of that clock sitting on your grandfather’s mantelpiece for the past 50 years, write a note saying so and date it. It may not be much, but it helps a little to fill in the gaps of the piece’s provenance, and that’s what every buyer looks for.
A watch handed to a crew member by a passenger during the sinking of the Titanic remains at the centre of one of the most controversial tales involving the disaster. Now it is up for sale at John Nicholson’s on May 20 with an estimate of £30,000-50,000.
The circumstances of the survival of the entire Caldwell family has been one of the most debated tales relating to the Titanic. More than a century on, it has been the subject of a book, blogs, essays and interviews.
At the heart of that debate is whether Albert Caldwell bribed crew members with his watch to secure a place on one of the lifeboats.
Certainly the watch, now up for auction again after selling at Christie’s in 1998, passed to a crew member. And the family, once rescued, disappeared so quickly that they were left off the published list of survivors, making their way home to Illinois to pick up their lives.
In doing so, they also managed to avoid being picked up by an ambulance waiting for them on the quay in New York. It had been dispatched to pick up Mrs Sylvia Caldwell, so that her state of health could be assessed. Did she really have the Tropical Neurasthenia that had enabled the family to quit their post in a Siam mission to return home early, or was she faking?
In 1909, Albert Caldwell (1885-1977) and his wife Sylvia had signed up for a seven-year mission to Siam with the Presbyterian Church’s Board of Foreign Missions. Sylvia was reportedly already ill by the time she gave birth to their son Alden on June 10, 1911, and the couple applied for early release from their contract as a result. Their request was turned down – a considerable blow as it meant the mission would not pay for their expensive return journey.
Eventually, Albert Caldwell’s pleading for the mission to let them leave persuaded led to a change of mind, but his boss wrote to the Board in New York, advising: “When they arrive in New York, have Mrs. Caldwell examined by some of our doctors before settling their account.” If she had been found healthy, the Caldwells would have faced paying for the return trip themselves – a forbidding amount. Hence the ambulance waiting when the Carpathia docked with the Titanic survivors aboard.
In the event, the Caldwells slipped away and disappeared, heading back west, with Albert securing the post of school principal within days.
How the watch changed hands from Albert to Elliott C’s father was never made clear; was it a bribe to let him on the lifeboat with his family, or could it have been handed over in gratitude for the stokers’ part in their rescue?
Albert himself changed the story of their rescue several times throughout his long life.
In a recorded interview still available online, he explained that at first lifeboats were being lowered and sent off only partially full because passengers did not realise the ship was sinking and were reluctant to let their wives and children set off by themselves in such conditions.
However, after descending to a lower deck and speaking with some of the ship’s stokers, he learned the true state of affairs.
At that moment, according to Caldwell, lifeboat number 13, which was only partially filled, was lowered past their deck and one of the stokers shouted to the crew above to hold it in position while the stokers and the Caldwell family climbed in.
Other stories of how Albert ended up in the lifeboat also emerged, some damning, others praising him as the protector of his family.
A photograph of the family on deck two days before the ship sank shows Albert clutching the baby, ten-month-old Alden, with his wife standing next to them. One argument was that her illness meant she did not have the strength to carry the baby. If so, it was likely that Albert was also carrying Alden when they headed to the lifeboat. Records show a sailor cast Alden to Steward Frederick Ray, who then left him in the care of Hilda Mary Slayter, who was grabbed to be placed in the boat as well.
Whatever the case, other men were also in the lifeboat.
When Christie’s sold this lot in 1998, it was erroneously assumed that Elliot C, the son of the crewman who took the watch, was Elliot C. Everett. The accompanying letter of provenance, being signed off as Elliot C. indicates that the C was the surname and could possibly be one of the engine room crew that Albert had befriended.
That letter reads as follows:
David, Add to Will
Father left his much treasured pocket watch and chain / cufflinks to me upon his death and I should like you to have them as a gesture of my gratitude for your many kindnesses over the years. Sadly it was necessary for me to sell the gold watch chain at a time of financial need.The watch has some history attached to it which you will be interested to read. I have included mother’s watch bought by my father as a 25th wedding anniversary present in the early twenties when he worked for the White Star Shipping Line, also her rings and diamond pendant which your wife may like to wear.
Thanks
Elliott C
Caldwell’s great niece wrote a book entitled A Rare Titanic Family in 2012, based on family research, which again self-validated his actions and distances himself as best possible from any disgrace. A copy accompanies the lot.
The watch itself – originally the property of a relative before being passed to Albert – is an 18ct gold cased keyless half hunter pocket watch by Sutherland & Horne, Edinburgh, No.265022, circa 1876.
It is engraved: Presented to JAMES CALDWELL by the employees of the Pumpherston Oil Co. Ltd on his leaving to take charge of the Mining Department at Deans, June 3rd 1896.
